How Physics Can Help You Stick Dynamic Moves
A Legendary Problem: Midnight Lightning
In the summer of 2001, I first tried Midnight Lightning, arguably the most famous boulder problem in the world. Situated in the middle of Camp 4 in Yosemite National Park, this iconic climb has two intimidating cruxes: a powerful jump to the namesake lightning hold, immediately followed by a committing mantle high off the ground.
Excited and nervous, I shuffled two small pads into place, chalked up, and grabbed the starting holds. After a few tricky moves on polished edges and slippery footholds, I found myself under the lightning hold. I took a breath and leaped. My feet cut loose, and my fingers grabbed the hold—but I couldn’t hold on.
Sat on the pads beneath the climb, I grinned. I’d almost stuck the move.
Over the next few days I tried again and again, hoping to find a solution. After perhaps 30 or so unsuccessful attempts, I started to feel frustrated. The classic Albert Einstein quote drifted into my mind, and I knew I had to try something different.
“Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results”
Analyzing the Challenge: The Physics of the Swing
That evening, as I sat by the campfire, I thought about the problem: What exactly was preventing me from completing the move? After some consideration, I realized it was the swing pulling me off the climb. If I could reduce it, perhaps I could make the move.
Thinking about the physics of the movement, I wondered: What if I leaned back before jumping? By placing my body further out from the wall, I’d reduce the swing.
The following morning, I climbed back up to the move and leaned back. It felt quite unintuitive and insecure but I jumped anyway. This time, I latched the hold and held the swing. It worked!
I didn’t send Midnight Lightning on that trip, but I did figure out that move. Fast-forward 20 years, and I’ve climbed the boulder problem over 40 times. Every time I set up for the jump, I lean back—and never fall.
“Sometimes, thinking about the physics of a dynamic move can help you unlock cryptic cruxes.”
Using Physics to Solve The Mystery
In 2018, my friend was working on a steep, classic V12, The Mystery, in the Buttermilks, California. He kept falling on a powerful cut-loose move. Frustrated, he asked for some help.
I recorded some video, slowed it down, and searched for a clue. He was so close to holding the swing, and I immediately thought back to my discovery on Midnight Lightning. Perhaps this was just another physics problem.
I suggested he lower his body away from the wall before cutting loose. This meant straightening his arms a little—an adjustment that would feel less secure but would slightly reduce the swing. Though it felt awkward, it worked! Within a few more attempts, he sent one of his hardest climbs ever.
“When working on a challenging move, search for the key factor holding you back. Pinpointing the obstacle is the first step toward success.”
Consider the Impact of a Swing
Next time you’re on a dynamic crux, consider the physics. Is the swing pulling you off? A tiny adjustment in body position might be all you need. Though it may feel awkward at first, a more insecure set-up can often lead to a more secure finish.
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Enjoy your climbing!
- Simon
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