4 Steps to Becoming a More Strategic Climber
In 1991, Wolfgang Güllich made the first ascent of Action Direct in the Frankenjura, Germany. Graded 9a (5.14d), it was the hardest sport climb in the world. This wasn't the first time Wolfgang had pushed the limits of the sport—he also climbed the world’s first 8b, 8b+, and 8c!
Even with this iconic list of achievements, Wolfgang is probably most famous for his modern approach to training for climbing. While his training was clearly valuable, I think there's often something important missing from Wolfgang's story.
I recently visited the Frankenjura for the first time, and as I moved from crag to crag, I couldn’t help but notice how many routes were first climbed by Wolfgang. While he’s famous for changing climbing’s training culture, he clearly spent a huge amount of time actually climbing. Yes, he used futuristic training methods—like the campus board—for his very hardest sends, but he was shaped most by the diversity of routes he tackled.
Wolfgang understood this balance well. In a 1987 interview, he said, "A 'successful' climber is someone who has done many hard routes in many areas, not just a local specialist." It’s clear that specialized training was something he only used when he really needed it—it was the icing on the cake, while the cake itself consisted of hundreds of climbs of varied styles. Judging by the sheer number of routes he climbed—from the Frankenjura to the U.S., Australia, the Karakoram, and Patagonia—he was spending most of his time (before his untimely death at age 31) sending climbs, not just training.
Luca adding another rung on his ladder with his ascent of The American Project in Cortina, Italy
Wolfgang was incredibly strategic. He had a vision of what success looked like and understood how climb choice would shape him. He built a ladder of ascents, each one taking him a step closer to his vision. When he got stuck (at the very ceiling of his performance), he’d experiment with a new training tactic to get that tiny boost and push his performance to the next level.
For today’s climbers, it’s easy to get caught up in trendy training ideas. We like feeling in control, and measurable training feeds that need. But it’s more challenging—and more important—to take a step back, think strategically about which climbs we choose, and consider how those choices will help us evolve as climbers.
So how can we become more strategic like Wolfgang?
First, we acknowledge that the most important decision in our climbing experience is our climb choices.
Second, we can define a vision of what success looks like.
Third, we can build a ladder of climbs that nudges us ever closer to that vision.
Finally, we can learn how to add a little training in the right way at the right time, to nudge our climbing to the next level.
Share with a Friend: If you like this content, please share it with a friend who might also find it helpful!
Enjoy your climbing!
- Simon
If you enjoyed this you can get more by signing up for our newsletter.
You’ll receive stories and ideas that can transform your climbing experience.